Day 17 It's a long way from home!

We’re following the Gold Rush trail today, with landmarks along the way to remind us that our journey is a relatively comfortable way by comparison. Our first stop of the day was at the Braeburn Lodge, famous as an official checkpoint for the 1000 mile Yukon Quest International Sled Dog Race. For the tourists who stop by the charter bus-load, it is also a chance to share one of the monster, 6” diameter cinnamon buns. Bryan chose a second breakfast instead that featured slabs of smoked ham, 2” thick homemade toast and strawberry-rhubarb jam with a pile of cubed hash browns. The coffee chaser warmed him up after the wet ride.

Along the way there, we smelled and viewed the ravages of forest fires from 1998 and then 1958. While the regrowth is slow, the change in landscape is remarkable.  At the same time, I wonder what affect the continuing week of rain will have on erosion as stream beds hurry along. Even the wildlife are staying home today which may be safer for the elk herd in the area along the highway.

The Montague Roadhouse Historic Site further along our route is a lasting reminder of those who used it for food and lodging on the stagecoach trip between Whitehouse and Dawson City, one of 52 such places listed as of 1901. The scale of the now empty building hints of the amount of activity once there.  Perhaps they also enjoyed the trails lined with carefree, purple fireweed as much as I have on this trip.

Carmacks, our next stop, was named for George Carmack who was responsible for starting the Klondike Gold Rush with his 1896 discovery at what became known as Bonanza Creek. It was my treasure there to be able to phone each of our girls and to send out yesterday’s blog.  Added to that, was the very hospitable person who ran the café and post office at The Barracks. Then just before we left, we met Kalen Holland and his friend Sophie who are also en route to Inuvik.  In a small world moment, we learned that he is the son of Rod and Darla Holland from Hanley, our old stomping grounds.

The view from the Five Finger Rapids turnout was spectacular, despite in the cold. How did the early pioneers who mapped and settled this country deal with the scope of such a vast land? By contrast, Bryan had the offer of help from two RV drivers when a large brown bear crossed the road ahead of him. They stopped to ensure that the bear stayed in the ditch while he cycled past.  We are thankful that he again safely completed 150 km today.

As we boon docked for the night at the Yukon Crossing viewpoint, along the ice age land mass of Beringia, we both wondered at Northerners’ courage and audacity.  They were indeed such a long way from home.