Day 20 and 21 On to Inuvik!

Monday morning was filled with promise as we considered the journey ahead.  We were further encouraged by Murray and Helen Gress from Tisdale who happened to run into us again at the Dempster junction. A quick visit and we were on our way from kilometre 4, skipping past the bridge repairs that were just underway. Bryan was trying out a rental bike from Dawson City for the week ahead, topped up with his own Aerobars, water bottle cages and a good cleaning.

Within the 6 km he pedaled, Bryan was hit by gravel from a semi and fought with the 6 inches of loose gravel on the shoulder.  In the interest of safety, he got back into the RV, looking for better conditions further down the highway. That never happened.  As we continued, things got worse. The thick gravel and ridge on the edge, ungraded road, continuous rumble bumps, steep drops off the shoulder, and thick, hanging dust made our decision for us. Bryan would likely join me in the RV for the rest of the trip to Inuvik. We were both disappointed but knew that this was the right move. Even in the RV, it was a terribly rough road and no place for anyone on a bike. It got much worse as we went along with measured improvement in the Northwest Territories. We had to take breaks from driving because of the road conditions but we still enjoyed the amazing scenery. We just were not willing to risk Bryan’s safety…..was anyone having any fun?

Once our decision was made, we started to enjoy our trip again despite the roads.  We saw 3 Hoary Marmots near the fantastic Tombstone Territorial Interpretive Centre, sipped on fresh Labrador and Pine tip tea, and took in the panoramic view.  We learned so much about the area and what we would soon experience. The road climbed ever higher, to an elevation of 3478 feet at Windy Summit. From boreal forest to vegetation like in the high Arctic tundra, we had seen the tree line recede.

That afternoon, we stopped at Engineer Creek Campground to enjoy some relaxation after the grueling drive. The nearby creek was a good place to explore. The unglaciated Ogilvie Mountains were a regal and daunting spectacle. We also enjoyed the company of Grey Jays and a fire but had to fight the mosquitoes. No complaints…this was only our second battle with them.

Still comfortable with the previous day’s decision, we started out at 4:00 am planning to reach Inuvik that day.  Our first delight just out of the campsite, was a grizzly bear running ahead of us on the road. Since he was twice the size of any black bears we had yet seen, we were glad to be in the RV when we met him. Later a peregrine falcon swooped over us and by the time we reached Inuvik, we had also seen a golden eagle and moose, including a cow and her twins. They didn’t wait for the photo op!

When the sun hardly sets, there can still be a lovely morning view at 4am!

The road got even worse, with longer, rougher climbs and that same loose gravel. Then, we came to smoke! Earlier, a couple had told us that they had come through the Eagle Plains area around 2 pm the day before and expected that the fire would cross the highway. It did and the road was closed at 3:30 on Monday. When we came to the site on Tuesday, we drove through fairly heavy smoke, but still easily got to Eagle Plains where we learned that the road was still closed.  We were the first ones through and were able to let others know that it was safe now.

Over a great breakfast at Eagle View Hotel, we heard from a local trucker that the Dempster  has not been maintained as it once was every spring to break down the calcium chloride chunks. No wonder it is so rough! As if clouds of dust and heavy traffic aren’t hard enough to handle. The only solution is to go slowly and save on tires.

By 8:30 am, we crossed the Arctic Circle, then later the border to the Northwest Territories. All along the way we were awed by the majestic sweep of the land. In the NWT, the roads were wider and smoother  but perhaps that was in part due to less challenging mountain terrain. At one stop of many, I collected Labrador Tea to enjoy later. 

In the Mackenzie River delta area, we crossed on two ferries, at Peel River and at Mackenzie Crossing. The only hitch in the day was encountering newly applied calcium chloride around Fort McPherson. ….so messy but so needed to keep the dust at bay.

The dust was still flying though when we wheeled into Inuvik at 4:00 pm. Bryan didn’t arrive by bike as first planned but we are glad that we are here in time to celebrate both Aboriginal Day and Summer Solstice tomorrow.  Sometimes, you just have to change your plans! He did go for a bike ride in the evening though, 26 km out to the airport and back. A good couple of days all in all!